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As a schoolboy I took a trip to a local lake where there used to be plenty of pike only to find a couple of schoolmates already spinning in one of the favoured areas, I went to have a chat with them and as one drew his spinner close to the bank and he hooked something that just wouldn’t come off bottom.. the tug of war up a foot or two, back down to the bottom went on for a good while each time with a cloud of bubble when it hit the deck. the fight was clearly going nowhere; just up and down, so I volunteered to handline it. It was obviously something pretty sizeable as I struggled to move it by hand too. eventually it came up and I managed to get a dartboard to the bank.
Perhaps les surprising, I’ve hooked a couple of Alligators in Florida whilst bass fishing. The most entertaining one was on a resort gold course when spinning for large mouth bass, which I hooked right in the tip of its snout when it tried to take a bass from the hook. I played it for 45 mins and could get its front feet on the bank before it retreated into the water to death roll. The pond was in the middle of a gold course and by the time I pulled for a break, I had about 10 golfers watching and taking photos. It was only a small one at around 5 feet. The other one was bigger at around 6-7 feet, which charged over to the disturbance caused by my little plastic lure also intended for bass, It just sat over the lure before moving off with the line round its leg. When the line tightened, the hook pulled into its leg, but being a much bigger specimen than the other one the fight didn’t last anywhere near as long.
Thanks for your reply. It’s actually the fittings/knuckles I’m most interested in.
I had the same thing happen to me last year after I packed up and telescoped a short 4 inside another. I ended up having to use hot (near boiling) water to expand the outer section. It might work in this case, but you may have to replace the elastic, but I guess that would be preferable to replacing the sections.
Once separated, give it a little candle wax to keep the water out.
It doesn’t seem unreasonable to me to expect a sponsored angler to promote his sponsor’s gear: at the end of the day, that’s one of the reasons for sponsorship. I used to get fed up with it, but have changed my opinion in recent years so that I now keep an open mind when reading the articles and look for similar items that I’m confident in. If a new product comes up that looks like it would be beneficial, I’ll take a look and make my own mind up.
A good recent case in point is hooks. I have so many different patterns that I’ve starting thinning them down to a smaller number of key types. Then I read a Pellet Waggler hook article, and I thought it would solve a concern I had with another pattern, so I bought some, tried them and now they are a firm favourite for certain methods. I really didn’t want another pattern, but I could see the advantage and they will have a long term place in the box.
For me, it’s about trying to find odd things that can be incorporated into my fishing that will improve or enhance the result. It’s not necessarily all about which line, hook, float or even bait/groundbait, as most of these are adaptable. When it comes down to it, there only a small number of primary shotting pattern variations (e.g. shirt button, strung bulk, bulk and dropper(s) and a few others), but it’s the application of the methods and feeding patterns that make or break the method. Each edition, I find something new to try or add to the memory bank for future reference and I look forward to receiving my copy each month for that reason.
I actually don’t mind the ads either, as they can be useful reference points when making purchases even though I try to use my local shop as much as possible. I think the issue becomes significant when the ratio of articles to ads reaches a critical point and everyone will have a different tolerance level, so you won’t please everyone.
However, one thing that does make me itch is the cynical inclusion of a CD in order to justify a price increase for that edition, which turns out to be permanent. Actually price increases are acceptable and most of us are grown up enough to realise what’s going on. Having said that, I’m sure some will have gleaned some good info from the disc(s) that will help in some circumstances, so I guess it could be considered an extra, live feature even if it’s a one-off.
I’ve never used the Shakys, but got my hands on a Middy X-Flex 4G last summer and have been very impressed. Nice and light and crisp with a good recovery and a lovely forgiving through action with plenty of beef when you need it. Has easily tamed decent sized doubles on 6lb line and kept fish out of lily beds. Great action under the rod tip prevents hook pulls.
I think I paid £60, so won’t break the bank and I’m sure you can get them cheaper now.
I also waggled a Garbo Mayhem PW in a shop and it seemed like a slimmer blank and lighter in the hand but not having them side by side makes the comparison a little difficult. Had I not already got the Middy, I probably would have bought it.
where are you based?
Elastic grade depends on what you’re fishing for.
I’ve tried double 2 on drains and wouldn’t recommend it as I couldn’t get on with it. It kept twisting and not retracting properly. Re-elasticating didn’t sort it out either.
Double Middy 3/4 works well, as does Preston Slip 6, but for some reason the 5 seems harsh. I also use Preston Slip 8, but go to solids for snag fishing to avoid the initial stretch.
I don’t know the rods but I would suggest a 4-6lb sinking braid depending on weed growth/snags. These are very fine compared to mono and will enable you to cast further if needed. Personally I use a 6lb shock leader with sufficient length to extend twice the length of the rod plus a couple of additional wraps on the spool.
The drawback with this is that you will need eyes on the tip with a decent diameter to allow the connecting knot through without catching.
Quite a few recommend the J-knot for attaching mono to braid, but the configuration of the knot is the wrong way round when attaching a leader and you end up with the tag end of the mono passing through the eyes first, which impedes the distance and can cause tangles or crack-offs. My recommendation here is to try a few and find one that you feel confortable and confident with.
I stayed on Cayo Las Brujas a couple of years ago and fished under the bridge near the dolphinarium and had some good succes on shallow diving plugs (Rapalas) with snappers and lost a really big barracuda on a Skitter Pop (surface popper) in the same place. whatever you take, change the hooks, as those supplied on the lures are totally inadequate even though they look strong; the ‘cuda just bent the originals almost immediately. i changed to VMCs and haven’t had an issue since.
i also hired a boat for a half day from the marina near the airport on the Cayo to fish for tarpon, as the big girls come in around August time. i think the cost was around £160 and was just me alone. unfortunately a hurricane passed us the day before and the sea was too cloudy/murky and the tarpon couldn’t see the lures, but they were surfacing round the boat. in the end we went off a reef and i used the skitter pop again to take a barracuda around 15lb and a “runner” around 5lb. not astounding, but the conditions were against us at the time.
under the bridges, the locals use handlines baited with bits of fish and caught more snappers than i did. the rocks are sharp under there, so they used strips of lead bitten onto the line to get the bait down.
FYI, i use a tele shimano 30g spinning rod, but would recommend something rather heavier. i’ve had a close look at the Shimano Ocean Master 4 piece 17-30lb rod in USA and this looks just the jobbie at around £100, but i’ve yet to see one in UK.
been wondering why i haven’t had a reply from my PMs to you but just noticed they are stuck in my inbox and wont send! event tried a new PM with no better luck.
would you be interested in selling your MSB spray bar separately?
interested in the MSB 2 frame and the legs. these are the round ones, right? where are you located?
I used it in Feb to attach a fluoro shock leader to a braid mainline and the knot kept getting jammed in the rings, so I eventually took it of and used the braid alone. in my opinion this is a knot that would work better if tying a braid leader to a mono/fluoro mainline because of the orientation of the leader tag ends on the finished knot (they point away from the reel). I don’t think I got the knot wrong, as it looked like the images I was trying to follow.
@caster rob wrote:
As you live about a hundred miles from me I do share your hope that if one is ever built, it is indeed only one mile from your front door and thus 99 away from mine!
This has to be my favourite ever response on here: brilliant, Rob, thanks!! this has made my day, maybe even month!
Strangely I did have similar notions of building an indoor venue a few years ago, but I just couldn’t bring myself to get past the concept let alone cost it up. However, they way this guy has done it wasn’t quite what I had in mind!
I chose to have my deep drawer below the frame, but if you want it above, you could always put the shallow drawer between the frame and the deep drawer.
The Doobries (think that’s what they’re called) will fall out, but I’ve found that using a small loop of (old) elastic to keep the top kit sections together when folded down prevents the Doobries from dropping out during storage. Stronger elastic is better for this.
Alternatively, there are several sources of PTFE joint aligners (like an internal bush) to fit the number 2 that mean the elastic protection is unneccessary.
Yes, Martin is correct. The Powerlite and Matchlite top kits are far better than the old kits, but you might end up with a mixture of old and new kits when you upgrade. If so, they’ll almort certainly be different lengths. Your new extendable cupping kit will then be invaluable!
All the G series and GMax series poles along with the newer “slap happy” versions (C series?) will take the Top Kits. Not sure about the Premier Legion or the Squad poles, but I guess these aren’t what you’re looking for if moving from a SL.
I used my original Power League kits on the SL and then on a Super G8 and now on a GMax 1000.
For what it’s worth, unless your SL joints are gone, there’s little point on moving to a Super G8, as there’s virtually no difference, but the GMax 1000 is definitely a step up. Don’t know about the rest of the GMaxx series, though.
I used them for a while until one snapped off in such a way that I couldn’t ge the remains out. Fortunately, it was on a short tipper section and I was able to replace it more cheaply than replacing the entire handle. Won’t do it again, as they’re not really intended to take that kind of load (maybe I catch too many big fish!)
I replied to your message of 18.06 yesterday. Hope you got the response.
An intersting observation I made a few years ago (original Power League to Superlegion) and repeated again more recently (Super G8 to GMax1000) is that when fishing with a slightly lower spec pole and then immediately using a higher spec one, the difference is noticeable. However, if you do it the other way round, the difference is magnified hugely.
PM from me, too. HD.
Oh, we’ve missed it then!
Not sure if I’ve missed anything (have only fished there a small handful of times), but Chestnut is one lake and is in Langford.
It might be a little too far, but there’s a disabled fishing charity called the Manderson Trust (http://www.themandersontrust.co.uk/) that might be grateful of some assistance regarding maintenance. They’re based about half way between Cambridge and St. Ives and are considering some extensive redesigns at the moment.
Nice one, [email protected]!
by the way, i’m really happy now the weekend’s here. Just going for a pee before i make a cuppa with 2 choccie digestives…
The problem is that, unlike the MSB Euro Box, there’s no independent seat height adjustment from the footplate, so the only way you can change the height is by adding or removing trays. For a box/frame in this price range I would expect this level of flexibility.
As always, it’s a good idea to try to hold one before buying. A friend of mine bought a Yank n Bank without setting it up first, on the basis that it was a good length. Shortly after he got it, I had a play and felt he’d wasted his money on a heavy, floppy banana with a horrible response time. There’s no comparison with my 8+ year old Maver H10, which is miles better, and I’m sure there must be even better models than that by now. I haven’t held a Shimano B850, but it would be on my target list for consideration, especially after the comments on here.
Forgot to mention, the fish there are also in great nick and give excellent accounts of themselves, too.
Slider, the venue Gav fished acutally has 2 lakes, which are rotated regularly. Both pose very different challenges and even individual swims on one lake vary hugely. It’s also a venue that is man made but certainly doesn’t have the stocking levels of a commie and is very old and naturalised, so I can see several reasons why he’s happy fishing there. It’s like asking a river angler if he ever gets bored with fishing the/a river.
i’m interested. can you pm me with an address, as i’d like to see if my box will fit.