With the two hole pullers that Browning make and no doubt other companies as well, you can use the normal storer bungs to keep as much elastic as you wish on the pole. So I am not sure of the need Anthony.

I made the post last week, because i thought a tackle compant would be making them by now. I have a DIY version of this already which is basically a standard stora bung, with an old cut off no.1 tip section aroldited into where the removal rod goes. you just pull the whole bung out and trap the elastic with your fingers.

I would like to replace the tip section with a plastic or similar to reduce weight in the topkit for fishing long

Could you chop the winder part off of a small bung and use that in place of the bead

would the 4inch either way (softer or tighter) really make that much differance?

mmm maybe it would to you but to me 4 inch i reckon wont make it viable to be honest…
the whole idea of pull a bungs (to me) is to have a really soft set elastic at a lower rating than normal to eliminate bumped off fish, and then shorten it via the puller if you get a bonus one..

so if i get this right, you fully unscrew the rod and elasticate your top….
when you get to the bank you have an option of winding the rod back in by 4 inch to slacken elastic by 4 inch…?
you dont have an option to tighten it as you set it fully out when you elasticate it…

likewise if you set it fully in and elasticate it you have to option to tighten it 4 inch, but not slacken it?

so you set it in the middle and have 2 inch either way???

mmmmm

What I did was to bend some Aluminium wire into an S shape about 25mm long and wind the elastic around this and covered it with some thick diameter silicon tubing to protect it. I could then release or wind on some elastic to suit and it gives you something to grab hold of too.

The browning and daiwa pullas are wank i have done this type for quite a few people and they say they are terrible when your pulling because you can not get a straight pull.you always seem to be fighting against the elastic to the bung.the idea of have a bung to tension and remove elastic to replace worn knots ect is good but the bigger picture is they are not as efficient as a single hole.

Anthony, it’s not a new invention at all. I still have some with aluminium threaded rods in them (about 30cm) and they are years old. Problem was that even at 30cm it doesn’t make enough difference to the tension in use (but does allow a couple of re-ties).

just off topic slightly, ive been looking for some kind of bead to replace the orange puller bit that comes with the preston bungs…
i want a bead that i can open up and clamp onto the end of the elastic (with no damage) so i dont have to knot the end of my elastic. this would make it so easy to change elastics in a flash, and you could keep your elastics on winders with dacron connector allready attatched.
and you wouldnt need to carry 10 top kits with you!! i suppose you could also reclamp the bead further up the elastic to tighten it if you wanted to, allthough this would leave a tag end hanging down that you would have to feed into your no4…

Anthony, yes exactly the same. Mine were made by an engineering friend who tapped the threads for me. Work well but not enough adjustment to make any difference. You’d need very long threaded rods. But, just enough to retie the connector end a couple of times.

First samples were about 30cm but I then realised that was nowhere near long enough. So made some 45cm with the thread from the very top (the bit up inside the pole) down to the bung & below for 30cm. Even then with 15cm above & 15cm below the actual top or nose of the cone (which was threaded internallly) you only have 15cm of adjustment either way to tighten or slacken the elastic. Don’t forget even with this the cone itself was about 8cm and the joint clearance to next section 10cm which leaves 12cm out at the bottom. (15cm up from the cone, 8cm of cone, 10cm to miss the male joint plus 12cm sticking out = 45cm). So, actually you could only ever adjust 12cm maximum (slackening for a retie) as that was all that was sticking out and you wouldn’t want to do that otherwise you’d have nothing to grab hold of. So, actually something more like 55/60cm would be better as that gives you 37cm – 42cm of total adjustment.But then if you tighten the whole lot down you end up with 37cm – 42cm sticking out below which needs to be passed into the male joint of the next section.

It does work. But to make any noticeable difference when tightening you need a long threaded rod.