A few years ago I was fishing large sliders to catch big roach in some of the Cumbrian Lakes and wanted a float that was stable in 20ft water in bad conditions (waves like the sea) , Couldn’t buy floats that worked so made my own using balsa bodies with drift beater type stems (the cut off sections from pole No1 sections) and 3-4″ of peacock quill for the sight tip.

These were anywhere from 20″ to 26″ in length, with 20-30 grm loaded body and capable of upto another 20grm down the line. Cumbersome to cast initially until I started using converted 13ft fast taper salmon spinning rods which cast these big floats up to 70m +.

Catching my two best roach (3lb) one December during a spell of cold windy weather after failing to see several bites on the feeder due to rough water conditions.

Wouldn’t say they stopped all movement but definitely slowed the drift down and could lay 2-3ft line on the bottom and still register bites.

Baitchef, if the drifts not to strong, you should be able to slow the float right down, it just depends how strong the drift if you can hold the float dead still
Just under shot the float and try some shot dragging the bottom,
Although a semi loaded slider float casts better than a non loaded float, I would try a non loaded float to achieve what you want
But be careful casting, I find using larger shot better on the slider as it does not wrap round/ tangle as much as smaller shot

Assuming that it’s a deep stillwater that you’re fishing, you could try and adjust your bulk-shot until you pick up the effect of the counter-tow.

This will be travelling in the opposite direction to the surface-tow and will neutralise its effect if you can get it to work on the bulk.

Not necessarily, it will become more tangle-prone.

You just need to be able to keep moving it until it’s at the depth that the tow is working at.

If you can find that you can keep it stable without having to drag so much line and shot and you’ll see the bites more easily.

So long as it doesn’t move up the line when you cast, maybe worth locking the silicone with a couple of No8s.

Depends how far you’re casting.

@mike pattinson wrote:

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Off topic I know [sorry baitchef!] but long time no speak Mike, how’s things with you ?

Over last few seasons I have moved away from using a ‘string’ of large shot when slider fishing and now use either olivettes or drilled bullets.

I’ve found the advantages are:

1) More aero dynamics on the cast especially with an olivette.

2) Easier to slide up/down the line than a string of bulky shot, especially as caster rob mentioned when trying to counteract the float drift by finding the reverse flow/ tow on the lake.

3) Another thing I’ve also found by playing around with the above set up is a slight speeding up of the float cocking, I suppose a big lump of a single weight falls faster than a bulk of weights i.e. shot, through the water due to friction etc… I reckon?

4) I’ve also found that using a single bulk of a large olivette or a bullet allows for unloaded sliders to cast better as well. Allowing for more weight down the rig to stabilise it.

Any calibration of the rig can be done by adding any smaller shot below the main loading weight.

@baitchef wrote:

Good points there. One things for sure the hooklength is going to have a swivel on the end of it. That way I can remove it from the mainline and have a play around with different weight set ups.

Yes I also use a swivel (micro size 24) for attaching the hooklength. This also allows you to swap around the hooklength length without having to alter any of the main rig once you’ve got that right.

Another trick with the swivel is to use this as a little weight (almost a tail shot) and have it just dragging bottom when needed to stabilise the rig as having the swivel just pulling along the bottom can be enough to slow the rig down and aid a stable presentation.

(Can also stop a twist up on the retrieve) 😀

if your hook comes close to your dropper shot. you will get tangles, so move your shot a little higher, to test this grab your hook carefully and fold it up in half to your shot. if it does not touch then you will not get tangles. i use the slider in holland a lot in this manner, and i seemed to do quiet well. all the breams are around 4lbs. 😎

Hi Baitchef, Check out the Cralusso Zero Slider. It is an unloaded float which holds the bulk perfectly under the body during the cast. You are also able to slightly change the shotting capacity due to the calibration system, the stem can move in and out of the body which allows you to use more or less lead, very usefull if you want to put a little more weight down the line. You have the ability to use diffrent sight tips to aid visability. The floats cast like a dream, its possible to achieve 10 -20% extra distance on the cast.
Coupled with a match quick snap swivel you will have the advantage of a swivel WHICH allows you to change hooklengths in seconds.

Agree with what has been posted concerning using a single weight.

http://www.matchangler.com/infopêche/indepth/370-sliding-across-frontiers.html
….awesome article from the MA ,compulsive reading and pictures if your a slider freak .
http://www.michaelschloegl.de/produkt/waggler.html …… great reading
http://www.schiepattigalleggianti.it/wagglers_uk.htm ….. look at the CHINOOK.
http://www.fishingfloat.hu/index_elemei/7_slider.jpg ……Carbon slider is my fave and use in the Scandanavian deep water canals.

To stop the drift (or at least slow it) then the use of more weight down the line would definately be the way.