Anyone an expert with Rover V8’s?

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    • #29886

      TF_Greenman

        Me, Six weeks off work with unknown body problems and vehicle out of action with front and top end engine rebuild, only to find it still has the same problem.
        A bit like me, in and out of hospital, loads of tests and stuff, stabed all over the place with needles, and they still don’t know whats wrong, just made me worse! Still, back in again in the next few days, when they have found my lost folder!Go in with an arm problem, come out with back problem and not even looked at my arm! x-rayed and scanned everything else, bit like my engine I guess, missing the point!!!

        Vehicle I need so at least I can try and do some work, so V8 buffs, even with silly questions welcome, as everyone else is as confused as me.

        Email me. Click on Red Greenman.

        Please help.

      • #65015

        spidercrab

          Sorry to hear of your woes, Greenman. I’m no expert with RV8s. Out of interest, what car is it in? Have you tried the Engines forum on PistonHeads?

          My pet V8 is an AJP which had a top end rebuild recently after cracking a valve spring (luckily 2 springs per valve so it didn’t drop). To pay my wallet back for its kindness, it’s now lunched it’s starter too. Oh what joy!

        • #65016

          TF_Greenman

            It’s still not sorted!
            1971 Range Rover with 1976 Lump.
            Will try PistonHeads as other forums have not given any results.

          • #65017

            spidercrab

              Hope it helps, chap.

              I just tried “rover v8” and “rv8” to seach the engines forum and got 5 and 6 pages of threads respectively.

              Alternatively, just create a login for yourself on PH if you haven’t already got one and post a new thread with your specific question. The amount of knowledge & peoples’ willingness to help on PH really is quite staggering.

              Good luck.

            • #65018

              TF_Greenman

                Hi SC,
                PH no use today, due to forum abuse they have closed all posts from new members for a day or two.
                Tried a number of other options.
                The only item not changed or renewed with the rebuild was the inlet manifold, so has been removed.
                No cracks found, but the 90 degree angles are not quite right, looks like the new [as previous] inlet manifold gasket may have been pulling air from the engine chamber in to ports 4 & 6, that is why no sound or WD40 made a difference when checked, as the induction may be internal.
                Selected the best of the four inlet manifold in the workshop, and also rebuilding the carbs again, and hope to get it back together over the weekend.
                Fingers crossed that will solve the problem.

              • #65019

                Hoggy.
                Participant

                  What are the symptoms of the problem on your V8 … I know a bit about them

                • #65020

                  TF_Greenman

                    Hi Hoggy, read above for details.
                    Well all back together, not been able to do a road test yet, but I think I still have the same problem!!
                    Ticks over ok, but under load or on the road, runs very lumpy, only appears to be running on four.
                    Looks very nice, all clean and polished, but will not get me to work!
                    Will finish the bit and final tune up and try a road run, but don’t look to good.
                    So the last two days of new inlet manifold, rebuild carbs [again] and distributor [again] may have been a waste of time.
                    One question, which I’m confused about and no one has been able to answer.
                    This was observed and still has the same affect after the complete rebuild and new parts of front and top end, including the flame traps and hoses and three sets of rebuild carbs.

                    On tick over, when I remove the L/H rocker breather, flame trap, from the carb the engine runs slower, yet if you remove the R/H the engine speed up??
                    The pressures should be the same, as should be from main block! confused.

                  • #65021

                    Hoggy.
                    Participant

                      Its not easy diagnosing a car problem without actually seeing the thing, but if you suspect its firing on only 4 cylinder, a couple of points to look into is, One, if it’s carb problem, it will knock off two cylinders on each bank, not 4 on one bank only! …. If you suspect the inlet manifold, it will pi** oil out due to there being a slight pressure in the crank (its there to stop oil seal deformities, and a couple of other reasons not worth going into) the design of the inlet manifold is crap …..

                      The flame trap on the rocker cover is prone to blocking up … it should have a wire type filter in it, if you suspect this, then gouge out the wire and refit and test, if it is, that then replace, this is a serviceable item anyhow! … some depending on chassis number had an over rev limiter on the ignition, this knocks off one bank! … I’ve come across them going wrong before, if you can substitute a known good distributor then try that, it will save you lay out cash on something that might be ok.

                      A common fault on the Range Rover V8 engine, which incidentally, might not be fitted to your car? (has it got the original engine fitted, it might have had a swap in its life, some have been exchange with the SD1/SD2 motor … the compression ration is stamped on the block, RR V8 compressions are lower! … anyhow a common fault on the RR V8’s was that they flattened the cam lobes, this was prominent on the back cylinders, this cause sluggishness and a course engine. The Hydraulic tappets were not pressurised enough and therefore the values never opened enough and the duration was far too shorts.

                      Run the engine and start systematically checking it, start from the beginning again, don’t jump in!

                      Get engine to normal temp, is it running ok, Y/N? … If not check CO levels, check spark plug colours and comparable condition. Check cylinder compressions, all should be within 15lbs of each other. When does the problem occur? … static at idle? … under load? Etc … when you took off the rocker covers, was there a noticeable high build up of carbon? … if so suspect follower malfunction, this will show up on a compression test! … do you know someone that has a cylinder leak tester? … if so get a test done … are there any abnormal engine noises? … Rocker have hardened inserts that rest upon the push rods when operating the valves, these at times become loose (more noticeable on idle)

                      As mentioned it’s not so easy to diagnosis a problem from afar … I worked at Land Rover/Rover for quite some years and even with the vehicle in front of you it at times can be baffling, that said the vast majority of the time it was something quite straight forward.

                      Good luck and don’t jump ahead of yourself, it can be a costly business not looking into the basics

                    • #65022

                      TF_Greenman

                        Hi Hoggy,
                        As said, everything is new, yet still have the same problem it had before the rebuild.

                      • #65023

                        TF_Greenman

                          Well it’s now a bt better, but still have the same problem, VERY lumpy under load.
                          Found various minor problems, and those you don’t expect, but always get.

                          Now found a problem with Dizzy dwell angle, sets up ok with Vac off, rev engine still ok, put on vac and rev, dwell 20% out.
                          Loose play in adjuster, reset dwell and rev up 20% out the other way.
                          Play in top plate of dizzy, not allowing plate to reset.
                          Rebuilt dizzy again! and will refit tomorrow, but don’t look good.
                          May have to try the electo [1985] sytem which has been in the work shop for the last ten years.
                          Or get another points dizzy?

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